Chapter 1: Hair

Our hair is composed of a tough, but elastic protein known as Keratin. Keratin is also found in your fingernails and toes. The hair shaft has three distinct layers, the Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla.
 

Cuticle
This layer protects against water loss. It is composed of complex interlocking scales, much like fish scales. The cuticle fall in a distinct pattern on each hair strand. We
alter the cuticle of the hair strand when we condition, color, bleach, straighten or curl the hair. When you buy human hair, it is important that all the cuticle be running in
the same direction like your natural hair, or there will be severe tangling and matting.
 

Cortex
The second layer makes up the bulk of the hair strand and provides strength and flexibility. Hair is as strong as a copper piece of wire of the same thickness. Also found
in this layer is the pigmentation which gives the hair its natural color. The cortex determines whether your hair is straight or curly.

Medulla
The innermost layer contains round cells that are the marrow of the hair shaft. Not much is known about this layer, although it is known that this layer has the ability to
reflect light, giving the hair its sheen and varied color tones.

Another important part of the hair is sebum, a natural yellowish, fatty secretion produced by the sebaceous gland in the scalp. It coats the hair and protects it from
damage. This is why it is so important to condition and properly care for long hair extensions as the hair is not receiving this sebum to protect and coat it.
 

Human Hair for Extensions
There are a multitude of sources today to buy human hair for extensions. Hair can be bought in bundles, on wefts (a weft is a tiny little curtain of hair where the hair is attached at the top) or pre-bonded, pre-tipped (where bonding material is already attached to the tip of the hair) The hair is priced and selected based on its grade, origin, length and texture. The hair supply industry is unregulated and the result is many unscrupulous companies offering human hair for sale that is inferior in quality or not at all what is stated in company advertising. All hair supply companies claim that they have the best quality human hair on the market.
 

Grades
Remy, Cuticle Hair
This is hair that is cut off a person’s head. The direction of the cuticle is maintained. There are many hair suppliers that claim they sell unprocessed Remy or cuticle
hair. To some extent all hair must be processed to ensure that the cuticle is aligned in the same direction. Because of the method of collection this type of hair is in
short supply and is quite expensive An expert in human hair can tell the difference between Remy and Non-Remy hair by touching it. It is said that Remy hair has a cool and silky feeling when you touch it. Non experts probably will not be able to tell the difference by looking at it.

You really need to be confident in your hair stylist’s ability and trust that the hair suppliers they use are using the hair that they say they are. A lot of the hair extension
companies process their own hair and sell it directly to the certified stylists to ensure quality standards. One indicator that you have Remy quality hair is the price.
It is expensive! And it will last a long time if properly maintained.

Non-cuticle, Non-Remy Hair, Fallen, Brushed
This type of hair is collected from hair brushes and hair that has fallen on the floor. It is in great supply and is much cheaper than Remy/Cuticle Hair. The majority of human hair sold today is non-Remy hair. Because of the method of collection, the cuticle for each hair strand tends to be in all different directions. In order to compensate for this, the hair will go through a process sometimes referred to as an acid bath, to completely remove all the cuticle. This can be equivalent to about ten perms in a row.  After the cuticle removal process, the hair is dipped in silicone to make it shine and to cover up any cuticle that were not removed in the acid bath. The silicone adds weight to the hair and ups the selling price as hair is sold by weight. At first glance the non-Remy hair will appear silky and shiny. After a few shampoos the silicone layer will start to wash out. The hair will slowly become duller, brittle and tangle and matte very easily. This type of hair is not recommended for any long-term hair extensions for the obvious reasons of tangling. Typically non-Remy hair is used in human hair wigs and toupees that are dry-cleaned.

Virgin Hair, Cuticle-Hair
Hair that has not been chemically altered and roots and tips are running in the same direction. Virgin hair usually refers to European hair as other origins of hair are rarely
sold in their original colors and textures. This hair is very expensive and in short supply.

Drawn Hair:Double Drawn Versus Single Drawn
Drawn is the word used for pulling the hair through an instrument that puts the hairs together (hackle). It is also called hackling. Single drawn is the 1st hackling of the
hair. This puts the hairs together. Similar lengths are gathered 6” to 10”; 11” to 14” and so on. Within the bundles the lengths will be varied. This has to do with
how people’s hair grows, falls out and replaces itself. Double drawn is another hackling and a finer separation of the hair. This is much more labor intensive and will just
about double the price of the hair. Some hair traders do not do double drawing of the hair.

Origins of Human Hair
The most common human hair used for hair extensions are European, Indian and Asian/Oriental. Other types such as Caucasian are usually unsuitable for extensions
because most Caucasian women process their hair.

Caucasian Hair
Oval in shape, fine to medium density with large variations in color. Blondes have the finest texture, darker colors have a coarser texture and red heads have the coarsest hair. The majority of Caucasian women process their hair leaving it unsuitable for hair extensions.

Asian/Oriental Hair
Round in shape, mostly straight or slightly wavy and usually dark brown or black. Asian hair has the thickest diameter and is one of the strongest types of hair, able to withstand various chemical processes unless you have the thickness of Asian hair, this hair will need to be made thinner (undergo chemical processing) for use as hair
extensions.
 

Indian (Hindu) Hair
Hair is small in diameter and comes in a variety of fiber types from fine, straight, medium, thick with wave or curly to thick hair. Most Indian women do not go to the salon for chemical processes such as color, perms, etc., leaving the hair in a virgin state. Indian hair must still be processed to make it appear closer to European and
Caucasian hair.

Some people claim that hair being sold as European hair is actually Indian hair that is brought to Europe for processing. Remy hair originates from Indian temples where women donate their hair in thanks for some blessing or when they get married.
 

European, Russian Hair
The hair is small in diameter and comes in many different textures and colors. Some European and Russian women do not process their hair and it is in excellent condition and suitable for hair extensions. European and Russian hair is in short supply and will be higher priced than most other hair.
 

Texture
Human hair comes in many different textures. Some stylists even blend different textures for a more natural look. Some textures available: Wavy texture, Curly texture
Straight texture, Synthetic Fiber Hair.
 

If you are uneasy about using human hair or are overly concerned about where it actually comes from, then you can still get hair extensions using synthetic fiber. There have been a lot of advancements in the production of synthetic fiber hair and generally speaking it is very easy to care for.

The types available include: Plain Synthetic Fiber (PP Fiber)-cheapest type of fiber Kanekalon Fiber-a type of hair that can be used with curling irons. Costs 2-5 times as much as plain synthetic fiber. Toyakalon Fiber which is very similar to the Kanekalon
Fiber. Costs 3-6 times as much as plain synthetic fiber

Synthetic fiber hair extensions are sometimes recommended for hair loss or thinning patients as the synthetic fiber hair is about half the weight of human hair and therefore reduces the amount of tension on your natural hair and scalp. Synthetic fiber hair suppliers provide a variety of colors and textures for hair extensions so that matching your color and texture is not a problem. Some of the drawbacks to synthetic fiber hair are that it cannot be chemically treated once it is on your head -- i.e. color, perms etc, and some of the cheaper grades of synthetic fiber hair cannot be styled with heat.

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